Before I just recently returned to work, I had a few days to kill and decided to waste them on the famously "European" city of northern Russia, St. Petersburg. The name derives from its creator, Peter the Great who had a goal during his reign to make Russia into a European nation. He attempted throughout his entire reign to open the borders, promote trade, and obtain a broader understanding of the world for all his people. It is by far the most beautiful city I have seen to this point in Russia, both in architecture and individuals. I arrived to my hostel to find that of the 40+ beds in the facility, I was to take up an entire 2.5 % of them (that's 1 bed in 40 occupied). At this I became slightly dissapointed as the primary reason I choose hostels is to meet people, which is very hard to do while traveling alone. In the course of the next 4 hours however, an additional 3 Americans showed up at the doorstep for lodging. The following is an excerpt of a mass email from one of them, Thomas, a goth loan officer from Sacramento with 22 piercings and spiked hair.
(Yeah, and people used to talk about how much I stood out in a foreign country..)
I began my evening by meeting Natasha for coffee at what appears to be the Russian Starbucks (and I was told coffee and chocolate would be unobtainable in Russia?). Together we talked about her upbringing, religion, our families and how it came that she now lives in St.Petersburg and my choice to visit (okay, so my lack of Russian and her limited english led me to believe that was our discussion, but maybe we were simply noting the weather). I talked her into allowing me record some of our conversation on a digital recorder I picked up last minute at the SF airport. It shall become one of my most favored souvenirs. Afterwards while walking her to the metro she explained the reason for everyone’s stares. It is not my lip piercing as I imagined but my side burns of which leave the Russians amazed. Natasha says that there is a Russian word to describe me which means three words in English. #1. Beauty, #2. Strange, #3. "a little funny". She assures me that this is a good thing and should not create for me a complex. I express that my ego is too engrained for such. In our farewell, we arranged to hopefully meet again for more coffee and or drinks over the next few nights while I remain in St.Petes. Could it be because I got the bill? hahaha...
After my company departed I set out to discover the flood lit St.Petersburg on my own. Over two hours I wandered the streets, alleyways, multiple bridges, with "The Cure" creating the atmosphere through my MP3 player, while the skies turned to rain. The combination of light, rain, and lack of sleep equated to a beautiful night. I took photo after photo while having to remind myself not to forget to experience everything while trying to obtain the best shot.
While returning to the hostel I had my first "questionable" experience with three random Russians. I was alone, crossing a bridge, when confronted. They, as I felt, became too close for comfort while all three spoke in Russian. Without a word to say, forgetting even how to speak in English at this point, I chose to instead retreat at a fast pace to the nearest side street. They followed me with what seemed aggression, though in all fairness, this may have been my interpretation due to fear. I was not however willing to wait around for them to justify such. As they followed closely speaking in what seemed to be anger I expressed my ability to speak English only. The head crony then laughed as he motioned that it was a cigarette they were in search of. Still nervous, we shook hands and I communicated that I had none. Thereafter the other two men again closed in on me and I felt it was time for me to exit their company immediately. Ignoring their further pleas I departed.
Back now entering my residence I was greeted by the host as she was on her way out. She said that they had been in search of me in the hostel (I filled one of the two occupied beds in over 40 available) as they just made pancakes and wished to share. She said they wanted to offer me many, though since they could not find me, only one remained. She had covered it and left it in the kitchen for my return. A great example of Russian hospitality!
I took this time in the warmth to try calling whoever was reachable at home. My hostel has free international calls and internet service which any traveler knows must be taken advantage of. While talking on the phone I was passed by the hostels other occupant, wearing a Scottish tee-shirt and looking of western decent. After ending my calls I found his name to be "Rich", a 23 year old from Tennessee who is working as an engineer for an oil company in the dead of Siberia. After each seven week cycle of non-stop drilling, he is allowed 3 weeks personal time. I believe he has now been doing so for a year and a half. This personal time has allowed him to travel England, Scotland and France, but he decided on this trip to revisit Moscow and St.Petersburg. As he just arrived that morning, I asked if he cared to join me for a pub crawl. That he did and so our night began. We headed out with advice from the host as to the places we should visit. (Side note: Our host had just previously shared her "honest personality" when explaining she once provided a traveler with two notes written in Russian which were supposed to read his need for a train ticket from St.Petersburg to Moscow. She clearly explained that if the women at the ticket counter said "niet" (no) to the first note, he should then follow by providing her with the second. Well, when he returned to the hostel in confusion he expressed in amazement that there were not tickets to Moscow. She then informed him that her first note was a joke which stated "I find you to be very beautiful and wish to invite you to a late night walk after you are off work". When the anticipated "niet" response was to be given the second note read "well then, if you wish not to walk with me, then I shall instead need a ticket to Moscow". The translation of the first note explained why the male ticket agents would not accept the second note from him, allowing him his real request...) Our first night club displayed exactly what the guidebooks prepare you for. Three strippers dancing upon poles, prostitutes abound seeking their prey, and local russians moving to the music upon the floor. I would say dancing but I can not credit their movements with such a description. Myself, being a Gothic kid at heart, who can knowingly dance however am always unsure as to how my dancing style will be perceived by foreigners (oh yeah, I am the foreigner, yes?). I was however given a compliment from a new Russian friend "Andrew" who joined Rich and me at the bar. Andrew asked if we wished to join him at another bar as he said the one we were in would be closing at 3am. I know what you’re thinking, but no he wasn't gay, though we did question his kindness and intentions. After some time we accepted his offer hesitantly. So much so that as we walked outside with him, Rich and I had second thoughts of our company. We instead decided to try and shed Andrew and move on to another club ourselves. Our mind was on such when quickly we walked down the street hoping to loose him. We however were surprised at this point to make new company with five approaching Police Officers calling out to all of us. Now if you did not know, the President of Russia has recently stated that tourist visiting his nation should not fear that of rampant crime from locals, but the rampant crime from his Mafia driven, uncontrollable Police. Prepared for this you are given advice on how to handle this situation which I attempted. First of all, our new friend "Andrew" was quick to point out that he was Russian and therefore the officer’s attention should instead be on us, the two Americans. I myself acted as to not know Russian (as I don't) nor understand the broken English of which the officers spoke. Therefore allowing Rich to translate for both of us. The officers asked if we had drugs, guns and or weapons on us of which Rich assured them we did not. They then began to search us for the like (Meaning they were really searching for nothing more than money which I had wisely stashed within a hidden pocket when the police initially approached. As in Russia, you are always guilty but can buy your freedom). When emptying my pockets to display their content I noticed my stupidity as I had a caffeine tablet on my person. Mind you this is perfectly legal in America and has no more effect than that of several cups of coffee great for night which will prove to include a lot of alcohol. However in Russia, it can easily be confused as drugs. MY GOD MY STUPIDITY!!!! I instantly had every episode of "COPS" in my mind as I attempted to gracefully drop the tablet and instead capture the officer’s attention using my chap stick. IT WORKED!!! Probably the only reason I can write to you today. The resolve of the situation led to the Police discovering no more then 10 rubles on Rich and no money on me, therefore after checking that we had proper documentation, let us be. Our night closed with 3 more shots of Votka at the second bar; to street vendor hamburgers (bad choice but I ate it anyways). This morning I woke up with the room still spinning...Though nothing that another night out can't repair!!!
Cheers, Thomas
This was only the first of several adventures we had. One the second night we were invited by another of the Americans (also from Sacremento, though going to St Petersburg University) to go to an bar run and operated by a middle aged American woman. I must say I am astonished at how my views of Russia and the people coincide with other Americans that have been in the country for a time. Even with an entirely different experience and living more than 2000 km apart, we had plenty of things to talk about, and additionally more than enough warnings and tips to give to the other two guys new to Russia. The clencher on this decision to go to the bar was the special offered between the times of 8-11. During that time, for the low price of 10 dollars, ALL the vodka in Russia was available to us. In order to maintain our dignity, and our ability to walk to the next bar once the clock struck 11, we made a mutual decision to ration our drinking taking only 1 shot every 15 minutes, though making sure to chase it with beer. Thomas, the same Thomas who had written the above excerpt, was found after shot 9 passed out in the bathroom for 20 minutes, and thus began our night. Suffice it to say I made it back at 5 in the morning (after having taken Thomas back at 10) to find one of the guys talking in a drunken banter to his friends back in the states, and the other fast asleep, waking up just enough to occasionally make it (or not as it sometimes happened) to the nearby bathroom.
Well, as I think I previously mentioned, I was in England for the past few weeks for training and then traveling around with my mother. I know am back in Moscow, though I still have about a week left before I go back to Siberia. During that week I was planning to go to St. Petersburg, a city I hear is the nicest in Russia, though I have been here a year and still haven't seen it. I tried to buy the tickets (by train) online, though I was informed it was a Saturday and nocouldn'tone wanted to work and get them purchased. So I was forced to go to the train station myself. I figured it couldn't be that hard, I was told the train station to go to (there are a few in the city) and I knew the train already. No problem. I get off the metro and look around. There was a train station to my immediate left, but I couldn't see a name for it. Lets ask the attendant... You say it is over my shoulder to the right? OK, time to walk over there... Oh, here it is... Still no name though... Time to ask again. Well this is when it got a little confusing, instead of them saying "After the fast train?" which I didn't quite understand, it took me another attendant to realize she actually met "through the bistro". See, bistro and fast are the same thing in Russian, its sorta their equivalent of fast food, and became a legacy in France when they occupied the country for a short time. Walking through the bistro, I see a huge sign on the opposite wall with the name of the station I am looking for. I am there at last, and only do I learn there that the service online for foreigners charged about 300% the cost you get if you can go up and ask for it yourself. Talk about railway robbery. I leave for SPB tonight... In a train booth with 4 beds... It's always fun to convince people I am a foreigner, as they never believe me.
Hi,
Excuse me in advance for the length of this novella, but theres a lot I want to mention, a lot I have experienced, and presently, a lot of time on my hands. Each of these alone would contribute to a moderate sized email, but as its been almost 3 months since my last email, and I have told more than half of you that I would send out an email soon (almost 3 months ago I started saying that), its about time for it all to come out. So, where do I start? How about with my trip to jail.
Yes, you heard me correctly, but I will give you a little background on the situation before going straight to the fun part. My friends and I decided one night to go walking around on the streets of Nizhnevartovsk, the city I currently reside in when I am in Siberia. Almost everyone during the summer time follows this course, as they need to get as much of the outdoors as possible before the cold comes in and makes it impossible to stay out for more than a few minutes. Once the snow clears from the ground, tents pop up around the city offering food, drink, and music, allowing the locals a little reprieve from the monotonous life that is consequence of living in an isolated community. (The nearest city to the place I am living is 1 hour by car) One night, while our group was reveling in the freedom from work we finally attain after 9 PM, we received a call that a fellow coworker was being detained at the police station, though we didn't know the exact reason why. Upon hearing this, we jumped into the car and arrived at the police station to see if we could offer any assistance and perhaps ascertain what the trouble was. Apparently after leaving us at around 11, my friend desperately needed to use the facilities while walking back to his apartment. Having a journey of more than 20 minutes until arrival, and there being few public facilities open even during daylight hours, he found woods close by and decided to make the best of what nature had to offer. A police officer happened to see this, resulting in the call I have mentioned previously. Apparently, from what I have heard, this is not quite an uncommon occurrence, as even a slight transgression as this can grant the officer a decent monetary tip at the end of the day. So there we were, waiting outside the police station, a friend going inside to see what could be done to help, when a quite irritated police officer came out telling us to leave the premises immediately. It was decided to wait for departure until our second friend returned as we were not about to leave a second person in the station without knowing exactly what was going on. In the 10 minutes it took until he came back outside, the officer had noticed I was a foreigner and wanting to cause a little bit more trouble for us, asked to see my passport. Now as I have learned, it is not the best idea to leave your passport on your person especially when living a day to day life in Siberia, and as such I did not have anything to offer the officer. My excuses of it being in my apartment weren't well heeded and he proceeded to conduct me into the station as well. The two remaining friends outside tried to help for the time being, however the officer was stern in his response. I at this point was not afraid in the slightest, as I knew I had done nothing wrong, however when looked upon in retrospect, I realize I probably should have been more wary though at that point there was nothing more I could do to help myself. I simply told these two remaining friends the whereabouts of my passport in the apartment and wished them luck, though obviously I didn't have much to give. I was placed in a cell, which was fortunately empty while I waited for what was to come. Apparently about 30 minutes after my entrance, the two of my friends in that station came out, the first of which having received a slap on the wrist as well as paying a fine of 30 dollars which went straight into the officer's pocket. While one friend returned to the apartment to get my passport, the remaining friends requested to know what they had done with me and why I was being treated like this. After a heated 10 minute discussion between them and the officer who had put me in, he realized this whole thing was more trouble than it was worth and let me loose, though not without throwing some off color remarks at us as I was walking out. Overall, not an extremely action packed experience, though it grants me the opportunity to state that I have been to Siberian prison, or at least a holding cell, a feat, though interesting, will doubtless be left out of my next resume.
Following my run in with the police, I began to prepare for my next vacation. A couple problems had arisen which somewhat limited my possible destinations. First of all, my Visa was about to expire in Russia and as one fortunate consequence, the Russian government required me to leave the country in order to accomplish this. Early vacation! So now that I knew I could leave, I was forced to choose a destination outside of the US. I learned prior to my plans that federal taxes must be paid by all citizens of the US, UNLESS that individual can stay away from the country for 30 out of the 365 days that make up a year… I was at 29. Making a long story short, I arrived in Sydney, Australia the beginning of July after having bought two separate plane tickets, and traveling 22 hours to a city halfway across the world. My final decision to go there was mostly because I was trying to visit an English speaking location where I could relax while still experiencing a new local. One thing about Australia: its huge. It turns out that when you compare the size of Australia to the US, it covers almost the 2/3rds the entire continental US. Granted, its not three times the size of it as Russia is, but still its pretty daunting when I originally thought it would be like visiting another country in Europe. Needless to say, the 2 weeks I was there wasn't near enough time to experience basically anything but the occasional beach and perhaps a bar or two... or three (hey, I said I was relaxing!)
As all good things come to an end, I ultimately made the trip back to Siberia a day after my birthday to begin work again. To my surprise, I obtained a package while I was in Moscow that was sent from the States. Enclosed was a group of envelopes containing birthday cards. I want to thank all of you that sent cards to my Mom allowing her to send them to me, and also to all the people that sent to my Dad, where they remain until my return. I know in the past I have never given an address of the location I am staying, mostly as I never know exactly which of the 4 locations in Siberia that I will be staying, however I guess now its about time I give you all at least some contact information if you ever wish to get a hold of me.
First is the address of the office in Moscow. If it is sent (even with writing in English) in care to myself, I should have no problem to receive it during my subsequent visit to Moscow. The address is:
Richard Alesi
Schlumberger Logelco Inc.,
Taganskaya 9
Moscow 109004
Russia
Phone numbers are a different matter, though I will be trying to get a full time cell phone in Siberia in the near future. I presently have a cell phone in Moscow, but I'm never actually there long enough to effectively make use of it.
One thing I have grown accustomed to since joining Schlumberger is how I am always transferred from one extreme to another. As it was beginning to get cold last year in Siberia, I hopped on a plane for training in Alexandria, Egypt. It had just begun snowing in Russia while at that time, Egypt was going through a drought. I then finished with Egypt just around Christmas time to arrive in Tennessee to be greeted by +65 degree weather. However, none of this prepared me for getting off a plane 2 weeks later in Siberia and greeted by a windy 30 degrees below freezing. This occurred twice more, leaving the snow in Russia to see the onset of spring in the States, as well as arriving in Sydney in the middle of their winter with hopes of surfing all along the coast. And yet, it continues… Just a few weeks ago, I was stranded on an oilfield in the middle of the forest, no sign of civilization for about 100 miles, and now I am sitting in a classroom in Edinburgh, Scotland's capital to complete the training I began in Egypt. One thing I can happily say is that life hasn't lacked in excitement since I began in Paris last year, though occasionally I am subject to the occasional day of sitting at the wellsite in the rain, soaked to the core, getting my entire coverall caked with mud while trying to successfully complete a job.
A few more things before I go… I understand this has been a long email and thanks for keeping up with it. I plan on being home sometime this Christmas, it seems I am one of the few people that have their schedules worked out to the point that they can get Christmas off, not even considering getting it off 2 years in a row. I hope to see all of you then. I started up a site a few months ago, which I haven't done a very good job updating (its surprisingly difficult to update something online when you don't even have a phone line i.e. the wellsite) Anyway, I hope to update it in the future, and besides it has all my past emails to all of you on it. So if by some mistake, or act of God, you failed to receive a past post, check it if you want.
For now, I want to say farewell, good luck to Matt on his future wedding plans, a thank you to all who sent me something for my birthday, even if I haven't physically seen most of it, and an additional thank you to the three of you that filled out a card the last minute to send with my mother on her trip to meet me in England.
Hope to hear from you soon,
Rich
Oh… and the website I referred to earlier is http://scio.blogspot.com
